We all know exfoliation is a part of many skincare routines, but did you know that not every exfoliation method works the same way?
Or maybe you don't know about exfoliation and are looking for where to start?
From chemical exfoliants like acids to physical methods like Microdermabrasion, there are several ways to exfoliate-and finding the right one starts with understanding how they work.
What Is The Difference Between Chemical and Physical Exfoliation?
To start, chemical exfoliants use specific ingredients to loosen bonds between accumulated dead skin cells so they can shed.
Salicylic Acid and Benzoyl Peroxide are two of the most popular chemical ingredients you'll find in skincare, but not for no reason! It's because these ingredients truly perform! They will be your best friend and your pimples' worst nightmare.
You may have also heard buzz in the skincare world lately about AHAs and BHAs. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) are absolutely that girl and are one of my favorite ingredients for achieving that "glass skin" look we all dream of. In the AHA family we have many acids that gently exfoliate the skin, helping improve the appearance of dullness, uneven tone, and texture.
Glycolic Acid is the deepest penetrating acid helps prevent acne, Lactic Acid is very gentle, hydrating and is great at fading hyperpigmentation. Mandelic Acid (my MVP) is a slower penetrating acid which makes it an appealing option for someone whose skin doesn't tolerate stronger exfoliants well!
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are most commonly made up of Salicylic Acid which penetrates deep into the skin and is incredible at preventing acne and clearing acne prone skin.
I know that the word chemical can seem intimidating... but I promise that when you find the right exfoliant for your skin type, it can honestly be gentler than using physical scrubs.
And, the plus with chemical exfoliants is that they usually have other benefits, like improving the appearance of dullness, uneven texture and blemish prone skin!
Physical exfoliation is the kind I personally envision when I hear the word "exfoliation".
Where you typically have a scrub or a tool to manually exfoliate off dead skin. Cleansing brushes, microdermabrasion devices and sugar scrubs are all forms of physical exfoliation that remove dead skin cells to reveal a smoother, brighter-looking complexion.
I know most of us are already guilty of scrubbing our faces raw and over exfoliating with a manual scrub. I definitely have... thank you high school and St. Ives. Many granule scrubs can cause micro tears in the skin, which can lead to inflammation and damage to your barrier. For these reasons, physical scrubs seem to be getting pushed aside in methods of exfoliation these days, but they're not all bad!
I personally love to use physical exfoliants for my body since the skin is generally thicker than the skin on the face and can tolerate more aggressive exfoliation. I exfoliate my body with a sugar scrub 2x per week during my shower routine and I apply coconut oil after for deep hydration and a delicious scent.
Which Exfoliant Is Right For My Skin Type?
So, now that we know about both forms of exfoliation you might be wondering, how do I know which kind of exfoliation is best for my skin type?
As a Master Esthetician I can tell you that skin type is only part of the equation. Your current skincare regimen, active ingredients, sensitivities and recent treatments can be just as important when choosing an exfoliation method. All things considered, when you assess your skin type and other factors to find an exfoliant that works for you, it will feel like a match made in heaven.
People with oily skin may benefit from Salicylic Acid (BHA) which exfoliates deep inside the pores to clear excess oil and buildup. Glycolic Acid (AHA) is fantastic at improving texture and dullness in the skin, but needs to be introduced slowly to avoid irritation or dryness. Oilier skin may tolerate certain exfoliants well, but stronger isn't always better
For dry skin types, Lactic Acid (AHA) is a great option because it gently exfoliates while also helping the skin retain moisture. Lactic Acid is one of the most gentle of the acids and can typically be used daily. Follow with a nourishing moisturizer to support the skin barrier.
Sensitive skin usually requires a gentler approach, which makes Mandelic Acid (AHA) my go to for this skin type. Mandelic Acid is incredible at treating acne while also gently exfoliating. Patch testing before introducing Mandelic Acid into your full routine can help you see how your skin responds before using a full strength serum.
Combination skin types may need to use multiple acids in different areas to actively exfoliate without barrier issues. Lactic Acid or Mandelic Acid can be used in drier areas of the face to gently hydrate; and any oily or congested areas may benefit from a low percentage Salicylic Acid.
Normal skin types may tolerate several AHAs and BHAs such as Lactic, Glycolic, Mandelic and Salicylic Acid. The acid you choose depends on your desired outcome! If your goal is surface exfoliation: Glycolic Acid. If you need a gentle approach: Lactic Acid. If you want to clear clogged pores: Salicylic Acid.
Regardless of skin type make sure you only introduce one exfoliant at a time, follow the product directions, moisturize and always follow with SPF!
Where Does At-Home Microdermabrasion Fit In?
If you love the instant smooth feeling of physical exfoliation but want something more controlled than a traditional scrub, at home microdermabrasion may be the perfect middle ground you're looking for!
Microdermabrasion is a form of physical exfoliation that works by removing accumulated dead skin cells from the surface of the skin through suction and Aluminum Oxide crystals. Unlike a traditional scrub that relies on manually rubbing granules across the skin, our microdermabrasion devices use patented spinning disc technology, powerful suction and a variety of caps to create a more controlled exfoliation experience!
If you are looking to target concerns such as dull skin, texture, and fine lines microdermabrasion might just be your new best friend. And our at home Personal Microderm Elite Pro makes it incredibly easy to get a spa level treatment right from the comfort of your own home. Different disc options allow you to customize your experience as you become more comfortable with the device.
Like any exfoliant, though, stronger isn't always better! Remembering to follow the recommended technique and frequency is key to benefiting from exfoliation without overwhelming your skin.
How Do You Know When You've Exfoliated Enough?
This is where listening to your skin becomes SO important!
After exfoliating, your skin may feel smoother and look brighter-but it shouldn't ever feel raw, painful or stripped. Persistent redness, stinging when products are applied and flaking skin are all signs that it may be time to slow down and take a few steps back from the sugar scrub.
One of the biggest things i've learned as an Esthetician is that you DON'T have to feel the burn for a product to be working.
Burning = Your skin is screaming for help!
Some acid based exfoliants may cause a mild tingling sensation but if a product ever burns, rinse it off immediately. We are going for refreshed, glowing and exfoliated not Freddy Krueger.
So, Chemical or Physical Exfoliation?
At the end of the day, there isn't one perfect exfoliation method for everyone.
Whether you choose a chemical or physical exfoliant, the best option is the one that works with your skin type, concerns and lifestyle. You may even find that both methods already have a place in your skincare routine!
The key is to start slow, stay consistent and pay attention to what your skin is telling you. Exfoliation should leave you feeling smooth, refreshed and confident in your skin, never irritated or stripped.
So whether your new best friend is Salicylic Acid, Mandelic Acid or your PMD Personal Microderm, find what your skin loves and stick with it!
